Kale Chane ki Ghugniyan aur Bhuna Gosht – Dyodhi by Gulzar: The Literary Kitchen #2

आँखों को वीज़ा नहीं लगता, सपनों की सरहद होती नहीं
बंद आँखों से रोज़ मैं सरहद पार चला जाता हूँ।
– Gulzar

Kale Chane ki Ghugniyan aur Bhuna Mutton - Dyodhi by Gulzar: The Literary Kitchen #2
Kale Chane ki Ghugniyan aur Bhuna Mutton – Dyodhi by Gulzar: The Literary Kitchen #2

Gulzar has poured in all his emotions in these two lines – the pain of partition and the longing for his village (now in Pakistan) are apparent here. He writes many such stories in Dyodhi, a collection of short stories by him. L.O.C is about one such friendship that’s victim of partition – that of Major Kulwant Singh and Mushtaq. The tough army man bares his feelings when he talks about the food that his friend’s mother cooked.

“किसी ज़माने में फत्तू मासी खिलाया करतीं थीं। मुश्ताक़ की अम्मी, सहारनपुर में। काले चने की घुघनियाँ और भुना गोश्त खाया है कभी?”

The food is cooked again under the same roof, but what happens at the border will stir you.

28 अगस्त हिंदुस्तानी फौजों ने ‘हाजी पीर’ अपने कब्ज़े में ले लिया। उसी दिन की ख़बर है, 28 अगस्त 1965… …सहारनपुर में फत्तू मासी घुघनियाँ वाला गोश्त पक रही थीं। बेजी ने काले चने उबाले थे। और एल.ओ.सी. पर ग्यारह फ़ौजी हलाक हो गए, जिन में एक मेजर कुलवंत सिंह था।

I had seen a play based on the story a few years ago where actor Yashpal Sharma (as Major Kulwant Singh) brought the character to life.

As a tribute, here’s my recipe of Kale Chane Ki Ghughniyan and Bhuna Gosht; food that Phattu Masi and Beji joyfully cooked, unaware of what was going on at the border.

Also Read: Hot Chocolate – Chocolat by Joanne Harris: The Literary Kitchen #1

Kale Chane Ki Ghughniyan
A dry dish of black chana famous in eastern UP and specifically cooked on Ashtami – the eighth dau of Navratra.

Kala chana (black chickpea) – 100 gms, soaked overnight
Red chilly powder – ½ tsp
Garam masala – ¼ tsp
Coriander powder – 1 tsp
Jeera powder – 2 tsp
Dry mango powder – 1 tsp
Salt to taste

• Pressure cook the chana.
• Mix in all the masalas and let it cook till the water evaporates.
• Serve.


Bhuna Gosht
Bhuna Gosht

Bhuna Gosht
Bhuna Gosht or Mutton is not a recipe but a style of cooking where meat is not pressure cooked but bhunoed. The recipes might wary and I used the one that I have grown up with. The meat is slow cooked with all the masalas and can be eaten with roti, rice or lachcha parantha.

Serves: 3

Mutton – 500 gms (make sure it’s the cut from chest and above)
Onions – 500 gms (sliced)
Garlic – 1/2 pod (peeled)
Ginger – 25 gms (finely chopped)
Cinnamon – 1 inch stick
Black cardamom – 3
Green cardamom – 4
Black pepper pods – 8
Cloves – 5
Cumin seeds – 1 tspMace – 1 tsp
Kebab chini (all spice) – 6
Shah jeera – 1 tsp
Bay leaves – 3
Dry red chillies – 8-10 (depending how spicy you want it to be)
Green chillies – 3 (sliced in halves)
Mustard oil – 3 tbsp
Salt to taste


  • Wash the mutton properly and keep aside.
  • Layer onions, garlic, ginger, green chillies, spices and mutton in a heavy bottomed vessel.
  • Mix in oil, add salt and let it cook on medium flame for at least 11/2 hours. Keep mixing it every once in a while.
  • Taste once to check if the meat is cooked; serve.

Read more about project The Literary Kitchen.


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